Ten days in Turkey - Part 8

Walking in Istanbul

We walked through the Sultanahmet and Beyazit districts to the Istanbul University campus. This took us through streets bustling with activity, shoppers and tourists alike. This area is a good example of how the ancient and the modern flourish next to each other in Istanbul.

We went past the Sebil (water kiosk) and Turbé (Tomb) of Sultan Mahmud II, a mid-19th century monument. The mausoleum has a plain, octagonal design, displaying the impact that western architecture had started making on Ottoman buildings. The tomb is noteworthy for its window railings that are elegant examples of iron embroidery.

Along the way are shops and craftsmen selling calligraphy on metal, pottery and tiles, as also enclosures where one could enjoy çay and nargillé (water pipe, hubble-bubble or huqqa). There are eating places of all kinds from McDonald’s to traditional Turkish fare such as Gözlemé and Baklava. We were to come back to the Gözlemé restaurant for an interesting meal the following day.

We went past the Çemberlitas Hamam, walked along the outer perimeter of the Grand Bazaar to finally land up in a large open plaza, the Beyazit Square, with the Istanbul University Gate on one side and the Beyazit Mosque on the other, both imposing structures in their own right.

Entered through an impressive gate done in Imperial style are the large gardens and buildings that make up the main campus of Istanbul University. Completed in 1866 during the reign of Sultan Abdulaziz, the main building originally housed the Ministry of War. This was the first building in Istanbul built in the Beaux Arts style with a central courtyard covered with a glass ceiling. In 1924 this building was given over to Darülfünun (House of Sciences) and in 1933 it became Istanbul University. Within the gardens stands the Beyazit Tower built in 1828 during the reign of Sultan Mahmud II as a watchtower for fires. Today, in addition to that, this 85 metre high tower is also used to collect meteorological data.

The Beyazit mosque was built in 1501-1505 on orders of Sultan Bayezid II, who succeeded Sultan Mehmet II to the throne in 1481. Known for his piety and administration, he provided stability to the Ottoman Empire and a platform for subsequent rulers to patronize arts and architecture. The Beyazit mosque is in a complex that also includes a public kitchen, a primary school, hospice, a medresse, a hamam and a caravanserai. The design is similar to other Ottoman mosques of that period, with a prominent sadirvan (ablution foundation) in the middle of a large courtyard. Stonework, woodwork and stained glasses inside this mosque are of high artistic value. On the Kiblah (direction of Mecca) side of the mosque are the tombs of Sultan Bayezid II and his daughter.

The Sahaflar Çarsisi (Book market) stands adjacent to the Beyazit mosque. Entered through an arched stone doorway, the market is a collection of shops around a small park with chinar trees and a bust on a pedestal (I forget who this is). All kinds of books are available in this market, from antique Persian texts to the Complete Idiot’s Guide to Windows. Many shops sell Turkish miniatures, mostly at exorbitant prices claiming these to be originals. I wonder how so many originals could have survived over the centuries. We bought a book on Turkish cooking, hoping to occasionally relive the tastes of Turkey.

I learnt later this was also a good place to shop for Istanbul classics such as Melling’s watercolors of Bosphorus views and the writings of Tapinar and Yahya Kemal on life in mid-20th century Istanbul. Thats for another day.

From the Book market we entered the Grand Bazaar or the Kapaliçarsi. Built originally by Sultan Mehmet II in 1461 and then rebuilt after being completely destroyed in the 1894 earthquake, this is an Istanbul landmark. The covered bazaar is spread over 30 hectares and consists of 61 streets and three main sections. It houses dealers in antiques, carpets, garments, leather, etc with each street dedicated to one profession.

Just walking through the Grand Bazaar is quite an experience. Bargain your heart out and you will land a good deal.