Ten days in Turkey - Part 9

The Bosphorus, Spice Bazaar and Hamam

Every great city has a river. In Istanbul, it is the Bosphorus, Bogaziçi to the Istanbullus. No visit is complete without a boat ride up and down the Bosphorus. We boarded a cruise boat at the Eminönü docks, paying 5 YTL per person for a two-hour cruise. It was a two-level boat that could easily accommodate about 300 people. As the boat leaves the dock one sees fantastic views of the city skyline dominated by architectural delights on the various hills that are part of Istanbul. There is the Yeni Camii next to the docks, the Suleimaniye Camii, the Galata Tower, the Topkapi Palace and various other mosques.

Travelling up the Bosphorus from the Golden Horn towards the Black Sea, the Asian part of Istanbul is on the right shore and the European part on the left shore. From the panoramic views, one cannot help notice the European bank to be dominated with the most important historical monuments of Istanbul. The Asian bank appears largely residential with Ottoman houses dominating the hills and fancy (and very expensive villas) along the river. Orhan Pamuk’s description of the Bosphorus in his “Istanbul: Memories of a City” comes alive. The Bosphorus yalis (Ottoman houses) Pamuk describes from his childhood are gone, but one can occasionally spot an odd one, half burnt, standing by itself, waiting to be torn down and replaced by an expensive villa.

A tower with smaller buildings around it stands in the water. This is the Kiz Kulesi also called Leander’s Tower. Originally built in 4th century BC and used by Greeks to regulate Bosphorus traffic, the tower was rebuilt by Sultan Mehmed II and then again in 1716 by the Grand Vizier Ibrahim Pasha. As the Ottomans consolidated their Empire the tower lost its defensive function and was used as a lighthouse. Legend has it that a fortuneteller predicted a princess to die of snakebite. The hapless girl was sent to this tower away from land to save her; the snake however made its way to the girl in a basket of fruits brought on by the locals. Historical records however reveal other uses for this tower.

The boat goes under the first bridge that connects the Asian and European sides of Istanbul. From here on, one building clearly dominates the Asian bank of the Bosphorus. This is the Çiragan Palace, now the Çiragan Hotel. This wooden palace of Fatima Sultan, wife of the Grand Vizier Ibrahim Pasha, was named Çiragan due to its night parties. Later it became a summer resort for the sultans. The main structure came up in the mid-19th century during the rule of Sultan Abdulaziz. This palace had a troubled history of imprisonments, rescue efforts and murders, but also served as a meeting place for the Ottoman Parliament. In 1910, at the time of the Turkish Revolution, the palace was burnt down to its bare walls and was reconstructed as a hotel in 1980.

As the boat approaches the second bridge across the Bosphorus, it starts turning back. The sun is low and colors the Bosphorus silver-grey. At this point the Rumeli Hisari (Rumelian or European Fortress) dominates the view. Sultan Mehmed II built this fortress in 1452 while preparing for the final assault on Constantinople. Built at the narrowest point on the Bosphorus, its purpose was to prevent the entry of Byzantine ships. With canons placed on the fortress walls, the channel was completely closed to the passage of ships. After the conquest of Constantinople, the fortress served no military purpose and has been used over the years as a prison and now as a museum.

Riding back, the European part of Istanbul that is on our right. At the suburb of Ortaköy the view is dominated by the small but beautiful Ortaköy Camii. Built by Sultan Abdulmecit in 1853, this mosque in Baroque style has wide and high windows to bring in the changing lights of the Bosphorus. The Istanbul skyline dominated by the hills and mosques comes in view again as we come to the end of a wonderful excursion over the Bosphorus. A trip to Istanbul is indeed incomplete without seeing the city views from this lovely channel connecting the Golden Horn to the Black Sea.

Across from the ferry docks in Eminönü stands the Yeni Camii (New Mosque). Only in Istanbul you have a 450-year old mosque called the New Mosque! Next to it is the Spice Bazaar. Good-natured shopkeepers recognized us as Indians and greet us with names of Indian movie stars. Indian movies are quite popular in Turkey and are dubbed in Turkish. I would really like to see how they dub Bollywood songs in Turkish. It was fun. We bought black olives, olive paste, and loads of lokum (Turkish delight), a form of gooey candy filled with nuts. This market is filled with interesting stuff such as tea in all flavours and “natural Turkish viagra”. Whether the stuff works is anyone’s guess.

After an early and lazy supper and on my son's insistence, we decided to visit a Turkish hamam. Public baths (or hamams) are an inseparable part of the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean culture, many still in operation across this region. Unfortunately, many public baths, especially those in the West, have gained notoriety in this AIDS-sensitized world. We were told that Turkey is different and going to the hamam as a family is still a tradition here.

The Çemberlitas Hamam is Istanbul’s oldest and best. Based on a 16th century design of the master architect Sinan, this hamam has been in continuous operation for the last 145 years. It has separate sections for men and women, is pricey at 36 YTL per head for a 45-minute session, but comes highly recommended. We changed into wrapping cloth and were led into the public central room that was hot and humid. We lay there on the central marble slab and sweated for the next 20 minutes. The sinuses clear up and all the aches and pains disappear. The massage had not begun yet. A good natured and burly masseur started working and for the next 15 minutes it was pure bliss. The first part was a scrubbing with a coarse mitten that is meant to loosen the dirt and get rid of dead skin. This is followed by a soapy massage and a thorough wash down. Later we were wrapped in thick towels and asked to rest in our cubicle for the next 30 minutes. A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice to end the experience and you already feel like a new person for whom no challenge is too great.

For once, I was glad I listened to my son.

Ten days in Turkey - Part 8

Walking in Istanbul

We walked through the Sultanahmet and Beyazit districts to the Istanbul University campus. This took us through streets bustling with activity, shoppers and tourists alike. This area is a good example of how the ancient and the modern flourish next to each other in Istanbul.

We went past the Sebil (water kiosk) and Turbé (Tomb) of Sultan Mahmud II, a mid-19th century monument. The mausoleum has a plain, octagonal design, displaying the impact that western architecture had started making on Ottoman buildings. The tomb is noteworthy for its window railings that are elegant examples of iron embroidery.

Along the way are shops and craftsmen selling calligraphy on metal, pottery and tiles, as also enclosures where one could enjoy çay and nargillé (water pipe, hubble-bubble or huqqa). There are eating places of all kinds from McDonald’s to traditional Turkish fare such as Gözlemé and Baklava. We were to come back to the Gözlemé restaurant for an interesting meal the following day.

We went past the Çemberlitas Hamam, walked along the outer perimeter of the Grand Bazaar to finally land up in a large open plaza, the Beyazit Square, with the Istanbul University Gate on one side and the Beyazit Mosque on the other, both imposing structures in their own right.

Entered through an impressive gate done in Imperial style are the large gardens and buildings that make up the main campus of Istanbul University. Completed in 1866 during the reign of Sultan Abdulaziz, the main building originally housed the Ministry of War. This was the first building in Istanbul built in the Beaux Arts style with a central courtyard covered with a glass ceiling. In 1924 this building was given over to Darülfünun (House of Sciences) and in 1933 it became Istanbul University. Within the gardens stands the Beyazit Tower built in 1828 during the reign of Sultan Mahmud II as a watchtower for fires. Today, in addition to that, this 85 metre high tower is also used to collect meteorological data.

The Beyazit mosque was built in 1501-1505 on orders of Sultan Bayezid II, who succeeded Sultan Mehmet II to the throne in 1481. Known for his piety and administration, he provided stability to the Ottoman Empire and a platform for subsequent rulers to patronize arts and architecture. The Beyazit mosque is in a complex that also includes a public kitchen, a primary school, hospice, a medresse, a hamam and a caravanserai. The design is similar to other Ottoman mosques of that period, with a prominent sadirvan (ablution foundation) in the middle of a large courtyard. Stonework, woodwork and stained glasses inside this mosque are of high artistic value. On the Kiblah (direction of Mecca) side of the mosque are the tombs of Sultan Bayezid II and his daughter.

The Sahaflar Çarsisi (Book market) stands adjacent to the Beyazit mosque. Entered through an arched stone doorway, the market is a collection of shops around a small park with chinar trees and a bust on a pedestal (I forget who this is). All kinds of books are available in this market, from antique Persian texts to the Complete Idiot’s Guide to Windows. Many shops sell Turkish miniatures, mostly at exorbitant prices claiming these to be originals. I wonder how so many originals could have survived over the centuries. We bought a book on Turkish cooking, hoping to occasionally relive the tastes of Turkey.

I learnt later this was also a good place to shop for Istanbul classics such as Melling’s watercolors of Bosphorus views and the writings of Tapinar and Yahya Kemal on life in mid-20th century Istanbul. Thats for another day.

From the Book market we entered the Grand Bazaar or the Kapaliçarsi. Built originally by Sultan Mehmet II in 1461 and then rebuilt after being completely destroyed in the 1894 earthquake, this is an Istanbul landmark. The covered bazaar is spread over 30 hectares and consists of 61 streets and three main sections. It houses dealers in antiques, carpets, garments, leather, etc with each street dedicated to one profession.

Just walking through the Grand Bazaar is quite an experience. Bargain your heart out and you will land a good deal.

Ten days in Turkey - Part 6

Back to Istanbul - Sultanahmet, the old city

The overnight bus to Istanbul was comfortable. Ararat Hotel was small and charming. The terrace offered a full view of the Sultanahmet Camii (Blue mosque) and a partial view of Ayasofya. The room was a bit cramped but functional, the staff was friendly, internet access was free and so were unlimited helpings of the Turkish breakfast. Ararat Hotel is located within a two-minute walk to the Blue mosque, Ayasofya and the Topkapi Palace, as also a street full of decent restaurants.

The Sultanahment Kulliyesi (Complex) and the Ayasofya stand facing each other, separated by the Sultanahmet Park. The complex, one of the grandest buildings in Istanbul, was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and designed by the master architect Mehmet Agha. Its construction began in 1609 and was completed in the year 1617. Legend has it that the Sultan was so enamoured at leaving a legacy as grand as the Ayasofya that he personally selected this site and paid a premium for acquiring it. The complex with a grand mosque at its centre also includes a medrese (theological school), a Hünkar kasri (summer palace), an arasta (row of shops in the same trade), the Sultan’s turbe, a darussifa (hospital), a primary school and public kitchens.

The Sultanahmet Camii (see picture) is colloquially called the Blue Mosque because of the roughly 20,000 glazed Iznik tiles decorating its interior. The main dome is supported on four pillars and four half-domes provide additional support. The five storeys from the floor to the dome have 260 stained glass windows that allow ample light. The mimbar of marble with mother of pearl inlay, the marble mihrab and the chandelier pendants hanging from the dome make for a truly spectacular interior. The entrance to the mosque is through a raised courtyard with a domed fountain in its centre. The distinguishing feature of this mosque is its six minarets, four of which are attached to the mosque and have three serefes (balconies) each. The two remaining minarets each with two serefes stand at the corners of the courtyard.

Outside the east entrance to the mosque is the Hippodrome or Sultanahmet Square with some prominent columns. The Serpent Column was originally erected at the Temple of Apollo in 479 BC to commemorate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians and was brought to Constantinople during the rule of Emperor Constantine I (324-337 AD). Towards its north is the Column of Constantine that dates to the 4th and 5th centuries. Towards the south is the Egyptian obelisk dating back to the reign of Pharaoh Tutmosis III, in pink granite with engravings of his victories; Theodosius I brought it to Constantinople in 390 AD. At the southern end of the Square stands a beautifully decorated German Fountain.

Ayasofya or Hagia Sophia (see picture) is the most famous and largest Byzantine church in Istanbul. Initially called Megalo Ecclesia (Colossal Church) and later named as Haghia Sophia (Holy Wisdom), it was one of the most important pieces of architecture in its time. The original church was constructed in the mid-4th century under the supervision of Emperors Constantine I and Constantine II, but later burnt down completely during the Nica revolt of 532 AD. Emperor Justinianus I commissioned reconstruction at the same site for which material was brought from all over the Mediterranean region. This also included dismantled columns of some pagan temples, including the temple of Artemisia in Western Anatolia.

Haghia Sophia was reopened for worship in January 537. Regardless of many subsequent alterations, it is largely this building that stands today. The church experienced its worst days during the Roman period when many of its riches were stolen and taken away to other European churches. By the time Byzantium regained control of Istanbul in 1261, Haghia Sophia was severely damaged and restored with very limited resources. The earthquake of 1334 further damaged this monument. A failing Byzantine Empire was never able to restore the church to its former glory.

A new chapter began for Haghia Sophia following the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul on May 29, 1453. Sultan Mehmed II entered Istanbul and headed directly to Haghia Sophia. He prayed at the ruined church. The same day it was converted to a mosque and named Ayasofya. Since then, it has remained as a symbol of the Ottoman conquest of Byzantium. Ayasofya is a monument that symbolizes the expansion of Muslim rule into Europe.

While preserving the essential structure of Haghia Sophia, Sultan Mehmed II restored it and added various structures to endow the mosque. These include a mihrab, a minaret and a medresse. In later times, one more minaret was added by Sultan Beyazid II and two more by Sultan Selim II. Sultan Mahmud I made extensive additions to the Ayasofya complex in 1739-40. These included a sadirvan (ablution fountain), sibyan mektebi (primary school), a public kitchen, a library, a sultan’s mess and a mihrab, each being important pieces of architecture. The importance of Ayasofya during the early part of Ottoman Istanbul can be gauged from the number of sultans and their family members whose turbes (tombs) are located here.

Haghia Sophia was known for its mosaics and the dome that is believed to represent the eternal cosmos. That this could have been done in the early part of the 6th century makes it even more important. During the Ottoman period, while the non-figured mosaics remained untouched, according to Islamic tradition, the figured mosaics were covered with latex. Many of these are slowly being restored to their original beauty. Two important and beautiful pieces of original mosaic work are those showing Virgin Mary and baby Jesus and another showing the archangel Gabriel. While converting Haghia Sophia into Ayasofya the Ottomans took care not to destroy its originality and instead embellished its beauty with their own architecture. The 7.5-meter diameter calligraphies showing the names of the Prophet (pbuh) and his associates, the laced stonework and the glazed tiles are all examples of those additions.

Since Turkey became a Republic, Ayasofya has not been used as a mosque. It was turned into a museum. As restoration efforts continue and this single monument reveals the combined beauty of centuries of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, the visitor is left with a nagging question. Haghia Sophia or Ayasofya? To the Muslim world Ayasofya will remain a symbol of its past glory and the spread of Islam to lands beyond Arabia, just as Cordoba and Alhambra (in Spain) reminds Christians of the Crusades that checked the march of Muslim armies into the European heartland. The question today should not be church or mosque. Ayasofya, as also Cordoba and Alhambra, are our collective heritage. Because in them everyone will find something they can identify with. Lets keep it that way.

Walking through Ayasofya, I was reminded of a trip to Jerusalem, an absolutely fascinating city in which Christian, Islamic and Jewish holy sites rub shoulders with each other. One of Christiandom’s holiest shrines is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. For the believers this houses Golgotha, the site of Christ’s crucifixation, the Stone of Unction where his body lay and the tomb from which he rose again. When Muslim armies led by Hazrat Umar, the second khalifah (Caliph) of Islam, entered Jerusalem in 638 AD, he was invited by the city’s guardians to pray in this church. Umar declined saying that if he did so, Muslims in future will lay claim on this church. He prayed on the open ground next to the church. A small mosque called Masjid-al-Umar stands at that site today as a symbol of the tolerance and justice that is the centerpiece of the Prophet’s (pbuh) teachings and the “real” Islam. A watercolor of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher hanging in my office reminds me of this every single day.

Unfortunately, Islam has been judged over centuries less by the actions of the Prophet (pbuh) and his companions, but more through the actions of Muslim kings such as ‘Mehmed the Conqueror'. Converting Haghia Sophia into Ayasofya was the action of a king, and kings of all faiths have behaved similarly.

Islam preaches tolerance and respect for other faiths. It also teaches that as a minority you cannot expect justice unless you have been just as a majority. For this reason it is imperative that Muslims do not ever use Haghia Sophia as a mosque.

Ten days in Turkey - Part 1

A day in Istanbul

Istanbul has always been a mysterious entity for me. Perhaps it came from reading all those post-WWII spy thrillers or watching those James Bond movies and dreaming of travelling on the Orient Express from Paris, through the Iron Curtain and the Balkans all the way to Istanbul. But there isn’t another city in the world like it, a city divided into two continents, a city where East meets West, a city that rose to glory with the Great Ottomans and ruled lands far away for hundreds of years. All great cities have two things in common – strategic geography and the never-say-die spirit of its people. Istanbul has an enviable location with the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea on either side, connected by the Bosphorus, a river that flows right through the city and is an integral part of its life and culture.

The Istanbullu (resident of Istanbul) is a survivor who has enjoyed the glory of the Ottomans and endured the defeat and despair that came with its fall. The Turkish writer Orhan Pamuk describes the pain and neglect of Istanbul during much of the 20th century through what he calls hüzün (melancholy) overcoming this city. The Istanbullu is traditional at heart but consciously acts modern. This conflict of the head and heart has gone on for almost a century and is easily seen by a discerning traveler.

I will write this blog more like a diary in retrospect, with chronology being the only sequence to be followed. The reader will see my preference for people, history and architecture, but in no particular order. Many of the thoughts expressed here will reflect my own biases and shortcomings, as a traveler and more so as an amateur writer. Nevertheless, being completely awed by the experience, I will try to share my joys and to some extent my despair.

Our travel over the next ten days took us to various parts of Turkey, the route for which is shown below.

We boarded the Turkish Airlines flight from Delhi for Istanbul. The flight experience was quite different from what we were to experience over the next ten days in this beautiful country. The plane was old and cramped with minimal facilities and the service was poor. The 6.5-hour flight passed off uneventfully. We landed at the Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul at 7:45 am, about an hour ahead of schedule. This early arrival and Istanbul traffic ensured that our host for the day, Adil, was not to be found at the arrival gate.

Adil, in his late 30s, is a mechanical engineer and works in the Istanbul Büyüksehir Belediyesi (Metropolitan Municipality). He was the first among an elaborate network of uncles and cousins I would meet over the next few days. This connection was through my former student Hasan and his wife Yurdanur who lived in Delhi for 5 years and had become part of our family. Though he knew very little English, Adil agreed to be our guide for the day. But his English was certainly better than my Turkish!

Keen to start on a spiritual note, we visited the shrine of Hazrat Ayoub al-Ansari (locally called Eyüp Sultan), a sahabi (companion) and standard-bearer of Prophet Mohammad (pbuh), who was martyred in the siege of Constantinople in 668 AD. Located in the Eyüp district in the western part of Istanbul, this shrine and the Eyüp Sultan Camii (Mosque of Great Eyüb) are packed with locals, and thankfully, very few tourists. The original mosque built in 1458 was destroyed and what stand today was built in 1798-1800 by Uzun Huseyin Efendi, a nobleman during the reign of Sultan Selim III. The interior of the baroque style mosque is plainly decorated unlike others of that period. It is a tradition in Turkey for young boys to visit this shrine following their sünnet ceremony, a family get-together to celebrate the boy’s recovery from circumcision. Dressed in traditional attire as young sultans, they are quite a sight.

A short gondola ride up the hill offers spectacular sights of the city and so does the tree-covered Pierre Loti Café on top of the hill.

Our next stop was the Dolmabaçhe Palace, a lavish new Ottoman palace built for Sultan Abdul Mecit in the mid-19th century. This palace built within a garden (baçhe) is different from the typical Ottoman palace architecture we were to see later; it follows a more European style, the interiors done by the designer of the Paris Opera. Entered through a beautifully designed outer gate, the palace is divided into the selamlik (ceremonial suites) and harem (family) sections. The crystal staircase in the former section was rather impressive. Later in history, Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, lived and died in its harem quarters. All the clocks in this palace show 9:05 am on November 10, 1938, the time of Ataturk’s death.


Adil drove us along the Bosphorus River through the western suburbs of Besiktas, Ortaköy and then to Arnavutköy for dinner at a very nice balik (fish) restaurant.

A tiring but memorable day in Istanbul.