Ten days in Turkey - Part 4

Nature’s museum - Cappadocia

We went for a day’s excursion to Cappadocia in south central Anatolia. This region is known for its unusual natural formations made of volcanic rock sculpted over centuries by wind and water erosion. The earliest settlers in this region were the Hittities (1800-1200 BC) followed by the Persians and the Romans. During the Roman and Byzantine periods of history, this area became a refuge for Christians who built many of the unusual cave dwellings we see today. Christianity flourished in this region from the 4th to 11th centuries; most churches, chapels and underground cities developed during this period. Under the later Seljuk and Ottoman rulers also Christians were treated with tolerance. The volcanic soil being rich in minerals, this area is also full of orchards and vineyards and a thriving wine industry. Cappadocia is a backpackers delight and now a hub of Turkey’s tourism industry, most people coming for the surreal scenery and small towns that blend in nicely with the surrounding landscape.

We took the road from Konya through Aksaray towards Nevsehir. This is the old caravan trail from the Aegean coast through Turkey into Persia. The Seljuks built a number of caravanserais along this 13th century Silk Road through Anatolia to facilitate trade. We stopped at one such serai called the Agzikara Hani, about 15 km northeast of Aksaray towards Nevsehir. Built between 1231 and 1239 by the Seljuk kings Alaettin Keykubad and Giyaseddin Keyhusrev, it is a typical caravanserai of that time with open and covered parts for summers and winters, respectively. The entrance is through an imposing gate, giving it a fort-like appearance. In the centre of the coutyard stands a small mescit (mosque).

The landscape is plain, dotted by small hillocks and wheat farms as far as the eye can see. This is the breadbasket of Turkey. But due to its religious orientation, Konya and its surrounding areas suffered in the period following the fall of the Ottoman Empire and establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923. The times were such that everything Western was considered good and Islam and its followers considered backward. The signs of Ottoman glory, such as the fez (what we in India call Turki topi) were prohibited (1925) and the Turkish alphabet was changed from Arabic to a Latin one (1928). Such a state of affairs persisted for almost half a century depriving a region rich in resources and culture of its due. Expatriate businessmen used private investment to set up factories in the region and eventually reversed its economy. Today this area, apart from its spiritual value has a thriving economy that is quite evident from all the construction one sees in Konya.

As we go through Nevsehir, the scenery starts changing. The landscape becomes rocky with interesting shapes jutting out of the ground. The town of Ürgüp 23 km from Nevsehir is set within a steep valley. The main street is dotted with antique shops, carpet shops and restaurants with a backdrop of swiss cheese style cliffs. A short walk from the city centre took us to the base of the Temenni Hill, a prominent sight in town. The climb was steep but not difficult. At the top are a small café, good 360 degree views and a saint’s tomb. Blended nicely in the surroundings is the nice-looking Otel Temennievi.

Back in town we had a simple lunch of pide bread topped with cheese, minced meat and mint leaves, much like a thin crust pizza, together with Ayran, the refreshing yogurt drink. Stomachs filled, we were back on the road towards Göreme.

The Göreme Open-Air museum is truly spectacular (see picture). This World Heritage site is a cluster of rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries from the Byzantine period. Walking through this wonderland, we go through cave dwellings and churches called the Rahibeler Manastiri (Nun’s Convent), the Aziz Basil Sapeli (St. Basil Chapel) and the Elmali Killise (Apple Church). The last one has very nice frescos under eight small and one large dome, but the apple cannot be seen. Then there is the Azize Barbara Sapeli (St Barbara Chapel) with frescos of Virgin Mary and St Barbara, the Yilanli Killise (Snake Church) with 11th century frescos of Emperor Constantine and St Onuphrius, a hermit from Egypt. The refractory contains a large dining table cut from rock and an attached larder with storage shelves carved in the walls. The Karanlik Killise (Dark Church) has the best-preserved frescos that depict the crucifixation of Christ and Judas’ betrayal.

The site is full of European and Japanese tourists. A Turkish tour guide enquired where I came from. On learning that I was from India, he said, “we see many tourists from India now; your economy must be good”.

From Göreme we came to Avanos, a small village known for its pottery. For once, the market centre did not have a statue of Ataturk; instead the statue depicted an unknown potter. There were many shops selling pottery, but the one we liked best was set in an underground cave (see picture).

Roads in Turkey are generally good, the speeds high and the drivers confused. They follow Western speeds and an Eastern road ethic. But, the inter-city bus services are very good and the main mode of transport. The Mercedes buses run by various private companies are clean, comfortable and affordable. The rest stops have all the basic facilities, including good eating joints; most also have a mescit and a small park for children to stretch out. Overall, traveling on Turkey’s roads was a good experience.