Ten days in Turkey - Part 5

More of Konya

We drove down to the Konya city centre (Sehir Merkezi) to look at some other Seljuk period monuments. There was the city wall protected by a large umbrella and a medressa that was closed for renovation. We were unable to go inside, but the gate displayed its fine character. The cutwork in stone over the main entrance is very nice; carvings in stone of the various names of Allah underline this. Not far from the old city wall was another Seljuk mosque. Though small, the stone carvings on its entrance were the best I have seen. Quranic verses in a replicating double helical pattern adorn the centre with raised floral patterns in stone lining the sides. A single minaret was also beautifully decorated in geometric patterns of blue tile on a beige stone background.

A short walk through the Konya International Exposition Grounds brought us to the grandest of Konya’s mosques, the Ulu Camii (see picture). This was an old Ottoman style mosque renovated in recent times with all modern trappings while preserving the old style. The entrance to this mosque is elevated to the first floor; before the main entrance there is a verandah with columns and arches one sees in pictures of Alhambra (Spain). The interior is exquisite with huge chandeliers, fine stained glass windows, and intricate calligraphy and geometric designs on the domes and corners. The two tall minarets are of classic Ottoman design with three levels and stone carvings under the balcony at each level. The Ulu Camii sits at a busy intersection with wide roads and tram tracks running around it.

Konya’s religious temper was evident here with at least two elderly gentlemen putting perfume on our hands as we performed wuzu (abulition) to get ready for prayers.

Hasan took us for dinner to a hilltop restaurant at the edge of town. The panoramic views of Konya were nice, but the food was forgettable.

We were to take the night bus to Istanbul. Hasan’s house was crowded with relatives from other cities who came to attend the sunnet party for Ahmet (Hasan’s son) the next day. Just for us, young Ahmet put on his sunnet dress, a shimmering white suit with silver embroidery with a turban and staff to match. He looked like an Ottoman prince.

It was time to say goodbye. Konya was lovely and its people are the reason. We spent three days with a loving Turkish family and observed at close quarters their bonding and their customs.

The Sufi tradition is evident everywhere in Konya. But things sometimes go overboard with commercial interests that market everything in the name of Mevlâna. How about some Mevlâna Kebap for lunch?